Kuifie in Africa; Padoko, Padoko, Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Manica Province, Mozambique, Africa

‘Padoko, Padoko’ Veroso kept saying. Slowly, slowly up the mountain. Mount Binga to be exact.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Valley of mountains @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Monte Binga is Mozambique’s highest peak at 2400 meters and lies in the Chimanimani Mountain ranges, bordering Zimbabwe to the west.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Chilly morning @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

It was a fresh morning in the valleys of the Chimanimani Mountains. It gets freezing cold here in winter.

I had a date with a king this early morning, we were to climb Monte Binga. But things are never what they seem.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Sunrise @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Belem and I left camp around 6 am on this cold but calm morning. I gave Zimba some extra time to warm up, we have a tricky track to start our day with.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Spectrum @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Watching the sunrise in a mountaineers area is always fascinating. A lot of light creating a lot shadow over the granite massive.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Reflections @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Reflected sunlight shimmered within blue skies. It looked magnetic and I couldn’t wait for things to come.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
A little to real @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Of course, Belem had his gun ready, poachers are quite frequent in this national park.

Zimba tacled this track just as well as he did yesterday.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Moz Outdoor Adventures @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

When we arrived at the departing point to the mountains, the bus and trailer of Moz Adventure Tours had already been parked. I pulled right in next to the adventurer and watched a heap of people scurrying around, packing and organizing. 10 hikers from all parts of Europe, as well as some local Mozambiquen, were tackling the same track, up to Mount Binga. Porters, guides, and one cook were needed to transport food and accessories uphill to Mosquito Camp.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
High Plateau @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

From what I understood from my discussion yesterday with Barrak, the tourism officer, is that one can walk up to the top of Mount Binga and back again in one day. And yes, it is possible. But what really is the point of that? In hindsight, this was one of the toughest mountain trails I’ve done for a while. Probably since Mount Mulanje in Malawi 6 years back.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Organising @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

King Mambo was busy organizing porters, cooks, and tour guides for a 10-man and woman-strong crew heading up the mountains. They had planned and organized the hike in 3 days and two nights camping in the mountains.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
The king @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

‘Are you feeling strong?’ He asked me. ‘Strong as an ox. But ox don’t climb mountains’ I replied.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Long way to go @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

He told me there was no way I could reach the top today as we left it late to leave. We would have to stay a night at Mosquito Camp and return tomorrow.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Visiting @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

From a visitors point of view, this information should have been shared from the very beginning. It would have been my preferred option as camping in the mountains is one of favourite places to pitch a tent.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Tour guide @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

King Mambo appointed Veroso to be my tour guide and organized a tent for the two of us.

I quickly packed the necessary belongings for a hot and dusty track to come, followed by freezing overnight temperatures.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Ready to go @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

And off we went. The first part of the journey was rather relaxing.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
River crossing @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

We crossed the Nhamadzi River for the first time, where team Kuifie caught up with team ‘Moz Adventurous’.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Veroso @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

My tour guide’s English was pretty good actually, so we could get to know one another.

He has been up this mountain only once before and I am his first solo travel guest.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Photo shoot @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Good for him and good for me. Let’s see how this works out.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Impressive @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

We had a great time by the river, taking photos of this impressive backdrop. Glassy clear water cascades emerged from or near oversized boulders. Weathered over time by the forces of nature. I could see and feel the strength these waters have in the rainy season.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Reflective @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Golden reflections in calmer waters.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
River of dreams @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

By the time we crossed the same river the second time, our destination was visible at a very far distance.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Monte Binga @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

The track itself became increasingly steep and steeper. ‘Padoko, Padoko’ my tour guide kept reminding me.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Team Moz Adventure @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

I started huffing and puffing distinctly as we sat in the shade to watch Team Adventure pass us by.

‘Padoko, Padoko’ the other guides said with a cheeky smile on their grin.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Shady refuge @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

‘You wait until you get 55!’

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Ghostly at night @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

The curios-looking Mantapa tree is as black as the night. Usually, off-burning is the cause for the black color, but this tree is black naturally. It is very popular for carpenters to carve out statues, Verdoso told me.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Happy break @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

More and more Padoko breaks were necessary as we climbed up in elevation. The air became increasingly thinner.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Alba @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Or my sinuses are more congested. Probably both.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Mountain streem @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

It took some effort to reach our lunch and picnic stop by the creek. Glassy waters slowly meandered toward the valley we just come from.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Cooling off @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Some of the adventures had already arrived and enjoyed a cooling dip in chilly mountain waters. The lady cook had already started a fire to prepare lunch. Mountaineering in style gotta give them that.

I relaxed in the shade for a while, catching my breath. Little by little, the rest of the adventure mob arrived. Huffing and puffing as much as I was.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Exploring @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

‘We are very close to Mosquito Camp’ Veroso mentioned. ‘Do you want to climb Mount Binga today?’ he asked. ‘It’s not that far.’ ‘Too far for today. Let’s go up tomorrow early morning.’

We left the adventure tour with their well-deserved lunch and headed towards Base Camp.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Lunchbreak @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

More up and a little down, only to go up again. But evevetually, we made it for the day. Hooray. Mosquito Camp is a very basic camp. Basic dug-out hole for toiletries and a basic door for a basic shower.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Up high @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

I preferred to wash off in the creek below. It felt great to get out of my hiking boots and soak my feet in freezing waters. A refreshing bath washed off the sweat and dust accumulated.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Downhill slope @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

We decided on a tent spot away from the crowd that was yet to arrive. It’s not quiet even but at least we have some peace.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Best seating @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Team Moz Adventurer Tours arrived late afternoon and set up camp in the main drag. Tent on tent, bumper to bumper. It’s a busy ‘Chimanimani’ place in the Chimanimani Mountains.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Setting sun @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

I climbed a nearby rock to watch the disappearing sun be yonder the horizon.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Mountain tops @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

The color spectrum ranged from orange to blue and pink. Just breathtaking. The little I had left.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Breathtaking @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Often enough, I asked myself, why I am doing this. The answer is right in front of me in the shape and colors of nature’s glory.

Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa
Fullmoon rise @Parque Nationale de Chimanimani, Mozambque, Africa

Meanwhile, the full moon appeared over the eastern slopes. It just keeps getting better.

Young French girl Alba joined me meanwhile as we both shared travel stories from the past.

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