Oh Malawi. What have you done.

It amazes me how happy and friendly people are. After the initial ’what is this zebra doing here ‘big eyes’ look, all it takes is a waving hand gesture and a friendly smile. ‘Msungu! Msungu’ . The excitement from the local people on outback trax is truly amazing. Not many zebras follow these tracks.

I crossed the border into Malawi without any hassle. A guide named Francis showed me where to go and how much to pay. It safes a lot of time and confusion having him or other border tour guides around. We were followed by a mob of people, trying to change money or selling SIM cards. At least there is no shuffling this time. The border post itself is less busy then the Mozambiquen ones I crossed before. Once I got back from my stamp duties, Zimba was surrounded by people. Himself had some entertainment and a wash. Even his hoofs had a wash up by a young fella.

I don’t know why they always get me. There must be something written my forehead that I can’t read. Can you?

In true Kuifie style, I directed Zimba of the main Highway, heading south. My aim was Majete National Park of which I heard many positive comments of late. I could have driven via Blantyre on the M6, M1 and M2.

Hmmm, I think not. That’s not how we travel. It was late afternoon already and there are communities all along this dusty track. Zimba was already in 4 WD mode as we made our way up the hill and down the washed out dried creeks and rivers.

Along the way, I met Benson. He was ‘just’ re-strapping his exhaust with wires and didn’t need any help. I asked him if there was somewhere I could camp for the night. I just need a bit of space, that’s all. He directed me to a school in a small community along the way.

The name of the school is Choti. I was meant to ask for Ursia and he will direct me on where I can stay the night.

More dried creek beds were crossed, up and down we went. As went the sun and I wasn’t sure if I had passed the school already. I asked for more directions and he so happen to be the principal of this school. But I still have to go up and down again. Funny. Shortly after I arrived in Choti, Benson arrived as well. And so did most of the community. The big staring eyes on Zimba and myself. A Msungu and a zebra? Here?

We had a wee laugh together, it was an instant unpretentious situation. Benson and Ursia lead the way to the school area and said that I can choose to camp wherever I want to. Both are endured and smitten by Zimba’s charm. I set up the Loftus Tent in the dark, surrounded by the stars of the night. I sat in complete darkness. I could hear music and woman singing not too far away. Kids were playing and laughing, random chatter from here and there, whilst people were passing by the ‘main road’. . I fell asleep to the sound to African beat in the distance. Malawi is just out of this world

I slept well and I slept in. I didn’t set the alarm, but wanted to get up early-ish. I had my banana and coffee and watched this community waking up. A few kids gathered across the path, looking at the zebra.

Ursia came a little later and said that I was most welcome to stay here. He couldn’t stay, he had somewhere to go. I asked if I could help the community and pay for my stay, which he didn’t accept. ‘You are our guest’.

Benson never came, we had a coffee date.

Instead the kids came closer.

Random chatter and laughter came across, let’s see what I can do.

Or to be exact, what OM-D can do.

One by one, the kids stepped forward to have their photo taken.

Just like Christmas on a cat walk.

Some where a little hesitant.

How good is that?

I started packing in which was closely observed by the fashion celebreties. Even my half-empty bowl of musli was handed to me, I felt a bit embarrassed.

However, the most intriguing object for the kids was my camping chair. It appeared like dark magic when it folded in, just like that. Then I opened it again, just like that.

The laughter and big eyes presented were just out of this world.

So, I let everyone sit in the Campmaster and have their photos taken.

‘That’s how to enjoy life’ this fella thought.

Indeed it is.

A teenage kid was taking photos of me while I was taking photos of the kids.

I was on my way to Majete Wildlife Reserve and Paulo was showing me the way on his moped. He had to go this way to reach the weekly market.

The track, well, was often smaller then the width of Zimba. Many people would have turned around. Many people were amazed by this zebra trotting along the track.

I saw Paulo stopping a few times ahead, warning their community about the approaching cavalry. And off he went again on his two wheeler.

We eventually came to the junction of the main back track, I need to turn left and follow the signs.

‘Which sign are you following?’ I asked, pointing at the goat around the waste.

‘Taking mother-in-law for a spin?’ Good thing he didn’t understand what I meant. This route was a little easier to follow as I passed more and more communities Laughing and waving, we edged our way towards the Wildlife Reserve Fence.

The Gate was locked.