Kuifie in Africa; Crusted Mud, Liwonde National Park, Malawi, Africa

One of my objectives in Liwonde National Park was to explore this landscape. Juicy green and shallow marshlands with coconut islands dotted with picturesque views in magazines attracted my interest.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
No Waders @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Elephants and other herbivores wade through knee-deep waters on hippo trails, splishing and splashing along the way, hooray.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Burning Sun @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Not at this time of the year. We are in the height of a drought, it hadn’t rained for at least 6 months.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Trails @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The hippo trails are still visible even in this crusted mud-dry land.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Edge @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

These mudflats are inaccessible in the wet season as almost as well in the dry season.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Crusted Mud @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The non-linear corrugation makes this a bumpy and slow ride over the crusty surface.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Inland @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

All waterholes inland are dried up.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Grazers @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

These retrieving shallow waters of the Shire River are what save animal life in Liwonde National Park.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Green @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

And where there is water, there is greenery.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Greener @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

For a moment in time.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Peninsula @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The water’s edge reflects the picturesque charm of this wildlife refuge nicely.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Receding @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Peninsulas create an all-surrounding water spectrum.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Vastness @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Channels and rivers merge into the vastness of the Shire River.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Hip Hip @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Hippos feel right at home here understandably. The endless shoreline gives each hippo pod enough space to save energy within this blistering heat.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Coconutty @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Some families booked a holiday on a tropical coconut island.

‘If you like Piná Colada…’

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Hippo Life @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

It would be wonderful to be a hippo right here and right now in cooling waters or covered in mud.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Close by @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

There are plenty of hippos here and they can be seen anywhere.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Wanderer @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

I was a little surprised to see this one wandering through the bushes in broad daylight. Hippos are generally nocturnal grazers, particularly in these steaming hot conditions.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Respect @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Hippos this size don’t have much to fear anywhere in Africa. Unless you are small and face a pack of lions.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
No Chance @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

This young hippo didn’t stand a chance, poor thing. It is confronting seeing a kill, even more so fresh.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Left-over @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

But on the flip side of the coin, it’s nature’s way. Live and let live. Lions made a kill early on my very first morning at Liwonde National Park. A fellow visitor gave me directions to this point of interest.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Some shade @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Most members lay in the shade with full bellies. One needs to rest after this feast.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Moving @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Only one lioness was still hungry and had leftovers for lunch. The heat seemed to bother her as she tried to move the carcass into the shade. This pride of lions seemed to specialize in hippos as they didn’t move from this proximity over the next 4 days of my visit.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Exhausted @

I found these cats in the same area, give or take a few hundred meters. Some days they lay together under the same bush.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Cubs @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The cubs went to lion school the next day.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
On the move @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

These big cats moved only once in front of Zimba on a surprising encounter.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Younger male @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

They probably had enough of nosy visitors snapping their cameras.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Big Boy @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Where there are hippos, crocs are never far off. It’s rarely seen that crocs attack hippo babies (YouTube) but more the fact that both live in the same environment. It’s very rare for Crocs to lay still for the camera too, particularly within this grassy green backdrop. These lizards haven’t changed for 60 million years. Why change a successful recipe?

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Energized @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

What the cats lacked in energy, baboons made up for it. Coconut is a resourceful food supply, hard work nonetheless.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Clever @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

They don’t come loose from the palm tree easily. Opening them is a different matter altogether. But where there’s a will, there’s a way. This clever monkey deserved a refreshing coconut cocktail.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Protein @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Digging through elephant poop is a vital source of insect protein.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Poop Platoon @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Elephant poop is the most important fertilizer on the African plains.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Gardener @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Digested seeds and fruits germinate so much easier and directly, as destructive as elephants are, they are responsible for a lot of regrowth.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Hot @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

I saw a few herds of elephants but most appeared a bit camera-shy.

Cheetahs were spotted some mornings in various locations. Not at the location I was at that point in time. Bummer. These shy cats are usually gone by the time you spot them.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
High grass @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Apart from tsetse flies, a few herbivores roamed the inland bushland. I was lucky to spot this big buffalo.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Great shot @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

He looks quite comfortable in the high grass, looking at my zebra.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Special @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The zebras here are of a special kind as their markings extend all the way to their hoofs. They still didn’t know what to think of my mechanical version.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Local @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

Liwonde National Park is an important habitat for birdlife just as well. Not only for the locals but for feathered migrants, flying from or to their breeding grounds.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Water in the dry season @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

This would be a birdie spectacle in the wet season. I should return in the wet season next time.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Serenity @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

I had a great time at Liwonde National Park due to the mix of tranquility and serene views.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Sunset @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

It felt somewhat surreal to spot animals and not be surrounded by cars and people.

Sitting at night under the stars just hearing the sounds of nature was definitely the highlight.

Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa
Sunrise @Liwonde National Park, Southern Malawi, Africa

The only way you hear elephants is when they crack twigs and branches. Otherwise, you wouldn’t even know that they are right beside you. Wonderful.

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