Setting up camp by the river is a breathtaking experience. Any body of water adds excitement as water is the source of life.

Overlooking the vast expanses over the reflecting horizon is inspirational. These camp spots are much sought after and are the first ones booked out at Wildlife Camp.

At nightfall, after yet another spectacular sunset, the first stars appear and reflect over the Luangwa River.

Venus is always the first star to be seen over the western skies in the southern hemisphere. Venus is the evening star south of the Equator. For those who lost orientation in ‘after hours’, Venus always shines west.

I had just captured a herd of elephants crossing the low-flowing river on another mellow cloudy morning.

There is always something fascinating about Olifants.

Just that gentle power fueled by grass, fruits, and cellulite, turning them into the largest land mammal on our planet. Fascinating.

All my neighbors were sitting near or by the river as the alarm came in.

‘Hyena! I can see hyenas. A whole pack by the river in the northern direction.’ Euphoria raced through the camp like wildfire as I moved towards them. ‘They are not hyenas!

It’s a pack of Painted Dogs. They are on the move and are pushing in this direction. Wow. I heard that a pack of dogs has a den not far from here in a secret location. Only the rangers may or may not know where it is, for the dog’s safety and harmony. Painted Dogs are high on the ‘spot list’ as their checkered fur may suggest. They aren’t shy towards humans but like hunting dogs, the pack is always on the move. I spent my time in the bunker the other day as someone said he had spotted the group. Within seconds, they had already disappeared in the thicket. No chance I thought.

And here they are, coming straight towards us along the river bank. The teamwork of the pack is second to none. A few troopers, often the alpha male, run up front and survey the fields. The rest moves on when no danger is apparent. Three or four outer lesson pups were included in this group. A bit green but eager to learn. It is rare to see a whole pack strolling along freely and undisturbed, I counted my lucky stars.

Painted dogs are the most successful hunters in Africa due to teamwork and stamina. They run their prey tired whilst the chasers switch positions randomly. In saying that, they often lose their quarry to larger predators. Hyaena in particular is the arch-enemy. My impression was that they relocated to another den for safety reasons. There is a pride of lions in the vicinity. And just like that, the alpha male headed into the bushes, and the whole pack followed. Gonsky in seconds.

What a start to the day. I had a coffee with my Dutch friends, who were busy packing. They are driving to Zomba, Malawi where a friend lives. Even though the petrol and diesel crisis was in fuel swing.

I passed the dutchies on the left-hand side and decided to walk along the riverbank towards the reception.

Egyptian Geese made the shallow waters their home. Their chitter-chatter can be heard all day which gives the camp a natural echo.

A few vervet mothers scurried through the leaf litter. Who knows what leafs there?

Baby monkeys hung on, upside down. Those big brown eyes and round faces are almost human-like.

Mom had a snack to produce the milkshake for the baby. Two in one like ‘Kindersurprise’.

A baboons mother was busy foraging too, just near the reception hide.

Her wee offspring was full of beans and protein and tried his luck in vertical exercises. Only practice makes perfect.

Mom was very protective and grabbed him as she saw me approaching.

The little baboon had his own mind and climbed the thorny scrubs again.

Mom wasn’t having any of this monkey and man game and joined the rest of the troop on the open grass.

That’s the life.

The youngster found a cousin to play in the fallen tree nearby. A happy ending for all of us.

The hide overlooked a waterhole on the open plains towards the river.

A young Inala looked rather cute walking on dangerous grounds. Some oversized herbivores scared the antelope off.

Three giraffes made an entrance. For an animal in that proportion, giraffes are overly cautious and curious. They kept looking towards the hide as if they could see me. I was in hiding.

Thirst overcame the first arrival whilst the other were towering for danger. It takes some effort for a giraffe to drink.

It’s a delicate balancing act to spread your front legs and shift your body weight to the back for the long neck to slide down. It appeared like a bodybuilder show as the youngster spills some water jumping up again.

This is where giraffes are most vulnerable to attacks. Not only can they not see what’s coming towards them, but are also easiest to topple that massive body due to Newton’s law.

Eventually, they all had a drink and moved on through the Mopane forest, with only moving heads visible over the tree line. Quite surreal.

Monkey’s mom had an important appointment at her furdresser. What’s a kid to do?

The baboons were thirsty and so the caravan began.

Hold on to your saddle kids.

I held on to my belongings as the vervet troop advanced along the camps by the river.

Zimba was a perfect hiding and climbing target. It was sweltering hot and the humidity was around 90%.

But I couldn’t open windows or doors as the monkeys watched my every move. I briefly didn’t pay attention and one of the vervets screamed off with bananas and a pack of ginger cookies. Little shite!

She sure enjoyed her snack sitting in the tree looking at me. Sharing is caring.

The afternoon saw a larger herd of elephants moving in towards the hide.

This is the largest herd I have seen here. It seemed that they came here for another reason.

They could smell something in the air. Moisture. After days of teasing the clouds finally got cracking and released their wet content.

Watching these elephants marvel in the mud pool was just the tip of the iceberg of my wildlife experience at this camp. Tomorrow, I am heading north to the lesser-visited North Luangwa National Park.

Hopefully, I get away early enough, if I get away at all.