Kuifie in Africa; Making Trax, Luangwa Valley, Zambia, Africa

It was unusually calm this morning, it felt like the earth stood still.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
First light @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Clear blue skies and a striking sun welcomed the early hours over the Mopane forest as I was hoping to capture the silhouette of an elephant. Only a few antelope showed.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Antelopes @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Yesterday’s showering filled up other waterholes so that animals don’t need to travel to camp.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Morning Colours @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

The calm and sunny conditions invited Rick for a last spin over the Luangwa River.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Tranquil @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

It was the first time on my stay here that no clouds cumulated over a vast, eerie horizon.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Reflections @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

There were no noises to be heard near or far.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Egyptian @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Only the geese colony made themselves heard as the birds chased each other over feeding and breeding grounds.

I packed Zimba’s tent and collected my belongings. One baboon peeled off with my carrot grader. Those monkeys.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Reflecting thoughts @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

What a place, what a camp, what a wildlife experience bonanza here by the Luangwa River. There’s no point recommending to stay here, if you can’t read between these lines. Zikomo.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Big eyes @Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

A quick stopover in Kakumbi saw me restock some groceries and diesel. Even though I was sure that I had enough of each, one can never be sure going off-road into the wild.

Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Wildlife Camp, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

The weather forecast looked a touch iffy with dark clouds accumulating and heavy thunderstorms predicted. According to Murphy’s Law; You never know if you never go.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Zebra @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

I passed the gates to the Nsefu section of the South Luangwa National Park which caused some commotion. The park warden had never seen a zebra with alloy rims before. Friendly chap.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Predator land @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

It had rained here as well as long green grass attracted a herd of zebras.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Zebra pose @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

They hadn’t seen a zebra on wheels either. This is the perfect lion country as tall grasses provide perfect cover.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Edging @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

No wonder the herbivores were on the edge.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
On the edge @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

A small herd of Kudu looked just as surprised as we passed by.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Billed @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Maybe a pair of ground hornbills got their attention.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Baobab @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Another thing I noticed along my way north was that baobab trees started flowering.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Greens @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

I couldn’t beleaf it seeing greens on their branches. Baobab trees start flowering long before rainfall begins. They can suck the moisture and humidity out of the air as the build-up season progresses. And when it does start to rain, the trees are already to be pollinated.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Utensils @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Baobab trees never cease to amaze me, Mother Nature is amazing. I have a feeling, there will be a few more posts about these incredible trees.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Impala Business @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

The impala didn’t care, they had reproductive business to attend. It’s that time of year again.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Where are the girls? @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

As I passed the northern gate of the Nsefu sector, I noticed dark clouds in the northern direction. My direction. The peaks of the mountain range that runs parallel to the Luangwa River captured the condensation. No doubt that it will be raining soon. Where exactly and how much I will find out, let’s see how far we get. I passed a few communities and crossed two dry river beds. The locals hadn’t seen a zebra on wheels either and happily waved in my direction. Smile and wave.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Dried @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

The river beds were dry as but sizeable. Imagine the amount of water flowing in a hefty wet season into the Luangwa River only to flood its way south. Phew, but not today. It was hot and humid all day until it started drizzling. Lightning and thunder signaled unweary weather right ahead. I was heading towards a thunderstorm and should sit this one out.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Empty Spaces @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Ideally, I would have kept on driving but I was lucky to have found some empty spaces. There aren’t any campgrounds or any form of population anywhere near, perfect. Moving along, I discovered a track leading west from the D104 towards the Luangwa River. I drove a few kilometers into the uncertain and settled for camp under a large tree.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Camp @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

There was clear evidence of animal activity right here. This is wild country; no people (of what I know of), no fences, and no boundaries to either national park. I am camping next to the eastern arm of the divided Luangwa Riverbed which is completely dried up from as far as I can see. After most of the thunderstorms passed north of my current site, constant rain showered this dry land for a few more hours. Just as well de-dust and take an outdoor shower. My outdoor office was compressed to a seat on the passenger side, I still hadn’t seen all the footage from the wildlife camp adventure. I sat under the tent in complete darkness when I heard those gentle and soft steps. An elephant bull tracked his way to the riverbed. He wasn’t far off when he passed us, though he was a little confused. Usually, there aren’t any zebras parked here. Lions roared for most of the night towards the dry riverbed. How safe am I going to be? You just never know.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Sunshine @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

It took a while for the sun to break through the clouds, good morning sunshine. I seized Rick for a spin to give a better indication of my surroundings.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Spot the grazers @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

A few impalas grazed on the riverbed, which was completely dry. Animal tracks scatter the sands like a mosaic.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Breakfast @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

Another elephant came for a visit early morning, just as I packed in. Fortunately, they are rather shy towards humans around here and trotted off.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Moving along @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

So should we Zimba! No doubt that we will hit some mud holes but how many and how deep and other ‘hows’ remain to be seen.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Mud wrestle @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

We had fun. Lots of it. Having Zimba sliding effortlessly through muddy terrain like we’re on a rally championship circuit. I was somewhat surprised by the depth and how many mudflats we encountered as it didn’t rain that much and that heavy.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
The turn-around @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

However, I did turn around eventually. A two-wheel drive taxi bus plowed through a decent stretch of mud, this will not do. I still had about 100 km ahead of me and escorting a taxi van through mud wasn’t my ideal scenario. I was confident enough to say that Zimba and I would have been able to reach our destination somehow, sometime. But mud is an off-road factor not to be taken lightly when traveling alone.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Incomplete @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

This also meant that I wouldn’t be able to complete the North Luangwa circuit and wouldn’t emerge on the T2 national highway to follow the fruit bats for their dawn and dusk migration at Kasanka National Park. I would have been able to complete the circle if I had left the wildlife camp two days earlier, But …

Would have, could have, and should have are best left to the wondering kind. Fact is that I need to return to Chipata and make my way southwest like I did 6 years ago.

Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa
Fun factor @Luangwa Valley, Mfue, Zambia, Africa

The park warden at the Nsefu Gate couldn’t recognize Zimba, neither could I. ‘Ja, we had some rain. And we had some fun.’

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