Kuifie in Africa; A Swiss Surprise, Luangwa, Zambia, Africa

I left Chipata around mid-morning. Kigela Campsite is my pick of accommodation in this border town, clean, friendly, and affordable with lots of extras like a camp kitchen. Covid it seems had decimated traveling folk to a minimum as I was the only guest underneath the mango tree.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Crossing @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

Some sort of Deja-Vu rang in my ears as I followed the endless tracks of the N4 southwest towards Lusaka. It was again, steaming hot as I stopped often enough to ensure that none of us overheated. We are not Russian after all. I crossed the newly built and impressive bridge over the Luangwa River just before the last light faded. The sun had just vanished behind the mountain terrain not far off. From here, the Luangwa River flows another 75 kilometers before entering a large delta into the Zambezi River near the township of Luangwa.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Baobab planet @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

I free-camped along this stretch 6 years ago, which may not be worth mentioning. Unless you add one magic word; Baobab.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Then @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

On my last visit, I camped right in between these giants and took some magnificent photographs of reflective trees.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Dry Land @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

The pond had dried out which was hardly surprising. This land needs a good drenching. Not today.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Camp @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

It was 6 am and temperatures had already risen above 25 degrees Celsius.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Bare @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

The baobab trees here are still wearing their dry-season outfit.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Dry @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

No leaves, no flowers, and no fruits.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Baobab shadows @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

A skeleton shadow reflected on this burnt ground.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Dry land @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

What’s a baobab tree gotta do? It is dusty, it is dry.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Baobab community @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

Local housing added some sense of comfort to the Baobab desert.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Mushroumors @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

Red walls made from local soils and tin roofs appeared like mushrooms from above.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Zimba @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

‘I should have been here earlier! I should have been here before the first light appeared.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Up high @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

The endless horizon would offer a dramatic color scale very early morning.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Vast @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

I must do that tomorrow!’ I thought whilst Rick was looping vast spaces.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Shade @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

I had the time and I had the patience to wait. But do I get enough shade not to get toasted on the process?

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Toastie @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

I found a little bit of shade on the Great Eastern Highway outside the busy village. Locals passed by and greeted friendly, wondering why a zebra was parked there. Smile and wave in action. A rental car stopped right next to Zimba and I recognized two wondering smiling faces.

My friendly Swiss neighbors at Wildlife Camp, William, and Elana got out, asking if I was okay. What a surprise. It was a happy unexpected reunion as I explained my idea for tomorrow morning’s photo shoot. Both cars weren’t supposed to be here as travel plans took us in opposite directions. Yet, both landed here.

The current unrest in Mozambique didn’t allow them to enter, whilst Malawi’s fuel crises hit rock bottom. A detour via Zambia was the only option to enter Zimbabwe of all places. I do not doubt that the three of us will meet up again some time in some foreign terrain.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Feeling hot @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

It was mid-morning and it was hot, hot, hot. I crossed the bridge over the Luangwa River to detour to the river from the eastern side. A small community lives here and they allowed me to park Zimba in some sort of shade. I met Ruth and her son Elvis on my way to the river for refreshments. The whole family gathered as I was the only Msungu cooling off in warm waters. It was bliss and a life-saving option.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Bridge over @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

The late afternoon had me moving onto the bridge.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Top Down @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

Or shall I say, I had Rick moving over the bridge.

Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa
Last light @Luangwa River, Luangwa District, Zambia, Africa

The sun was lowering over the mountain range as it did yesterday.

Leave a comment