Kuifie in Africa; Maghadighadi Dust-Pans, Botswana, Africa

I stayed in Maun for my usual recharge, refill, and reload routine. In all honesty, I felt like an alien Msungu.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Outcast @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Most other Msungu were from countries afar, arriving on planes or tar. Overland buses cramp the high street next to 4-wheel drives offering sightseeing tours from different lodges. Everything was based on money and $$’$ were talking. Furthermore, the national park head office could not give me any information about road conditions to Kubu Island. ‘This is the Okavango Park’. Use less and un-user friendly.

The heavy rains within this region may or may have not affected the off-road tracks to Likubu Island and turned them into salty slush. Something I didn’t want to find out along the way.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Here we go @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

I decided to follow the Boteti River towards Makgadikgadi and either turn left or right. I was running late again as the setting sun was lowering behind acacia trees.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Bliss @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

We were driving a sand track along the Boteti River with little or no settlements but plenty of serenity. This is my kinda camp spot, right in the thick of it.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Surprise @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The upper riverbanks yielded some fresh green as a young turtle disappeared in the thicket.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Lilly @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Lillies started blossoming like they did in Zambia weeks ago.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Fresh greens @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The area was surprisingly green but not on the other side.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Casting @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Some rain had fallen but none reached the riverbed.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Your dryness @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

As I took Rick for a flight in the evening sun, the extension of this dustpan was revealed. There is not a drop of water anywhere near.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Vertical @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Some farmers had dug some waterholes but there is no moisture left. This river was as dry as a crumbled cookie.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Last light @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

I didn’t expect it to be this bad. Not surprisingly, I didn’t hear any animal noises or movement overnight.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Good morning @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

A few cowbells called in the dawn service for another steaming day. Long shadows cast over the barren ground as Rick seized another loop around the riverbed.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Who would know? @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The Boteti River is an overflow extension coming from the Okavango Delta. The Thamalakane River splits south of Maun, leaving the Boteti River flowing south-east. This precious liquid is harvested by human colonies as soon as it arrives. But even for humanity, no water had flown for over 1000 days.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Welcome @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

‘Not a drop had reached this far south for the past three years’ the friendly ranger girl said as I passed the gates. ‘It has been very hot and very dry and it is very difficult to live with’.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
2018 @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

I remember the Boteti River with its amazing deep blue waters just like the Cotè d’Azur.

As the rain waters wash through sand-crystal riverbeds, the water gets filtered naturally.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Vast and dry @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Herds of zebras called this riverbed their lifeline.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Victim @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Elephants came running from afar. Now they are running on empty.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Neighbors @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The only lifeline these animals had was the few diesel-pumped waterholes.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Roundup @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

These were frequently visited by various groups of elephants.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Downtown @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Rick had the best view from above.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Complex @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The birds-eye-view changes the complexity all together.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Move on @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The water appeared to be greener on the other side as the elephants moved from one waterhole to the next.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Bruce! @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The scenario reminiscent like an oversized pub crawl. ‘Who’s shout is it?’

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
My shout @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Of course, there is always one to stay on.

‘C’mon Bruce!’

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
AI OK @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Cheers to that and cheers to human kindness.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Panorama @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

I had to reduce flight times as Rick was in danger to overheat as well.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Keeping cool @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

It was late morning and temperatures had risen already past beyonda.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Hot Hot Hot @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The soft sand was too hot to walk on barefoot, one could fry an egg.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Tire tracks @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

There was no need for Zimba to plough through loose tracks.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Shade at last @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Shade was hard to find and non-negotiable to share.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Hope @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

A few hardy trees started blooming as recent moisture started the much needed greenhouse effect.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Not long @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Let’s hope that there is much more to come this wet season. The signs are ominous.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
All along @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The elevated rim of the riverbed gave a remarkable angle to the clear sky.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Angle @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The animals walked on the blue skyline.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Young one @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Smaller herds of zebras accumulated to a stronghold in the riverbed.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Make my day @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The other zebras felt the warmness just as much as heated arguments had risen. Some young punk had asked for trouble.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Foursome @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Zimba blended in perfectly as the fury kind wasn’t skittish at all.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Are you sure? @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Curiosity didn’t kill the zebra. I don’t mind, OM-D doesn’t mind at all.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Closer inspection @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

It gave us another opportunity to look a bit closer.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Stripes @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

The stripes and streaks are extraordinarily detailed. Just like fingerprints, none are the same.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
White behind the ears @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Even the mane extends in black and white. Artistic natural expression.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Timid @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

You know that you are in a semi-desert environment when you come across these graceful antelopes. The gemsbok, or oryx antelope, prefers the dry habitat and has established in this dustbowl. I was lucky to spot and shoot these two with my lens before them running off. Better safe than sorrow.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Gonsky @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

Just as quick as this ostrich dad who surprised me in a dried-out mud hole.

Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa
Good intentions @Maghadighadi Salt Pans, Botswana, Africa

It was late afternoon already as I reached the northern pearly gates.

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